Vac Connection Central Vacuum Installation


Central Vacuum Installation

We offer our clients CUSTOM ROUGH-IN's and INSTALLATION 's of central vacuum systems in new or existing homes. We can arrange for one of our professional installers to come to your home for a consult to see if central vac installation is possible for your home or if another option would be available for you.

Feel Free to call or email us anytime!

If you are a "do it yourself-er" we offer all the installation materials you would need to complete the job so you are up and running in a short period of time.

Below, please find a Central vacuum installation guide as well as a installation video to assist you in completing your task quickly and easily.

7 Step Installation  

Step One: 

Choosing your system    

Select the Beam Central Vacuum System, power brush and accessories that best suit your home and cleaning needs. For the ultimate in ease, add a VacPan automatic dustpan in kitchen, mudroom or bath.Click to the right to see the Beam Central vacuum lineup that best suits you and your home.

Beam Central Vac Lineup

Step Two:
Calculate the number of inlets you'll need

Total square feet of your home (Don't forget the basement).

Divided by / 700 Sq'(Associated with coverage from a 30' Hose length)

= Number of Inlets required for coverage.

VacPan® is additional inlet and is not included in this calculation.


Step Three:
Where to place the inlets

One inlet can serve an area of about 65-75 square meters. For more power, the fewer the inlets used the better. And be sure the hose will reach from the inlet valve to all corners (and around furniture) in the rooms you want to vacuum. Do not install inlet valves in a wall where there is a pocket door or behind a door. If you prefer, inlets can be installed in the floor.

Step Four:
Where to place the inlets

Plan the piping installation from the Beam power unit to the inlet valves. It's best to run the piping under the floor if possible. In structures without basements, the piping may be run through the attic or crawlspaces. In an existing two- or three-story home, vacuum piping may be run to upper levels through cold air ducts, through the back of closets or under stairways, or beside a soil pipe. In new structures, pipe can be run through wall studs before drywall is applied. Be sure to plan where to locate the Beam power unit — usually in the garage or basement.

Helpful Hints:

  • Use a tubing cutter for cleaner cuts.
  • Use 2-1/4" wood boring bit similar to a Forstner bit.
  • Rent a right-angle drill if you do not have one.

Tools you'll need

  1. Drywall saw (optional)
  2. Electrical tape/duct tape/cable ties
  3. Electric drill - 1/2" (1.3cm) with right-angle head if possible
  4. Flashlight
  5. Forstner wood-boring bit - 2-1/4" (5.7cm)
  6. Hammer
  7. Hole saw or cutter - 2-1/4" (5.7cm)
  8. Masonry bit - 2-1/4" (5.7cm) (optional)
  9. Metal coat hangers
  10. Pencil
  11. Pipe/tubing cutter or hacksaw and miter box
  12. Safety goggles
  13. Screwdrivers (Phillips and flat blade)
  14. Steel tape measure
  15. Stud finder
  16. Utility/razor knife
  17. Wire stripper/cutter
  18. Wood chisel
  19. 30' (9.15cm) piece of cord or string

Step Five:
Installing the inlet valves

To install an inlet valve in existing construction, start by finding the center of the bottom plate of the wall. Then from the basement use the hole saw to drill a hole up into the wall cavity. (Remember to wear safety goggles throughout the installation process.)

There is a simple way to find the center of a wall. Using a section of wire cut from a coat hanger, drill a pilot hole through the carpet or hard surface floor. Drill as close to the wall as possible — pointing the drill bit at a 45-degree angle.

In the basement, see where the coat hanger has come through. Measure over from the coat hanger to find the center of the bottom of the wall plate. Using the hole saw, drill a hole into the wall cavity.

Using the flashlight, and/or broom handle, check to see that the wall cavity is free from obstructions to the desired height of the inlet valve — before cutting a hole in the wall. Then, on the wall, center a mark above the pilot hole made by the coat hanger. This will be the center of your inlet valve.

Center the wall inlet bracket, trace the outline, then cut a hole in the wall. Attach the wall bracket to an elbow of pipe.

Connect the low voltage wire to the inlet valve stem. Attach a small weight to the opposite end of the wire and feed the wire through the hole to the basement. Insert the inlet valve and bracket into the wall. Mount the inlet valve so the valve folds down to open.

Installing inlet valves in new construction follows the same basic procedures.

Step Six:
Installing pipe

Measure the length of pipe, making sure your cuts are straight and clean. Use a sharp knife or sandpaper to eliminate burrs that might collect dust or hair that could form a dirt trap. Starting with the inlet valve farthest from the power unit, begin test fitting then gluing together sections of piping. Join sections of piping to the main trunk line which ties into the Beam power unit. Splice together the low voltage wires along the trunk line. Run and connect the trunk line to the Beam power unit. If mounting the power unit in the garage, drill a pilot hole through the wall using a wire coat hanger to check location and for obstructions. Then cut a 2 1/2" hole though the wooden joist above the masonry wall between the basement and the garage. Feed piping into garage to unit.

Step Seven:
Installing the power unit

Mount the Beam power unit using detailed instructions included with it. Strip the ends of the low voltage wire coming into the garage and connect them to the power unit. Plug the power unit into an electrical outlet, flip the manual override switch on/off to test it. Then plug in the lightweight hose to clean up any minor mess you may have made installing the inlets. Congratulations! You're on your way to a cleaner, healthier — old or new — home.


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Vac Connection